Hillary Eaton


Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

This Sommelier Is Turning Wine-Speak into Comics

When it comes to restaurant lingo, nothing is more perplexing than somm-speak.

While overhearing an expediter yell at a line cook in the middle of service can sound foreign to the uninitiated, the world of “soigne” has nothing on the strange, poetic language that sommeliers—and, consequently, wine writers—have adopted when talking about wine.

Because descriptions like “loamy forest floor” can sound ridiculous to casual wine drinkers, MaryseChevriere—sommelier at Dominique Crenn’s Petit Crenn in San Francisco—decided to channel foofy wine slang into art. The result: Fresh Cut Garden Hose, an Instagram account that contains a series of cartoons inspired by the strangest of somm-speak.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

How Hawaii’s Culinary Revolution Conquered the Luau

Historically speaking, a traditional luau is a far cry from the whole production you see today: Tourists in Tommy Bahama shirts getting wasted on piña coladas and feasting on bastardized, uninspired renditions of “Hawaiian food” while fire dancers spit flames. With origins in Hawaiian religious practices, luaus were originally referred to as ‘aha’aina, meaning “to gather for a meal.” They were held to celebrate things like victories at war, your baby surviving its first year, and other such occasions. These meals would involve raw fish, taro, and pig cooked in an underground oven known as an imu, all eaten by hand on the floor.

The feasts were meant to honor the gods and celebrate unity, but oddly enough they were segregated affairs. This was dictated by a law called Ai’Kapu from the Kapu law code—a universal system that directed people’s lives on every level, from lifestyle to politics, religion, and even acceptable roles for each gender. According to the law, women and commoners weren’t allowed to partake in delicacies such as pork, reef fish, and most bananas. That law remained in effect until King Kamehameha II decreed that the women of his court could eat with him during the feast, making all the celebratory food available to everyone, no matter their social stature or gender.

Following the equalization of sexes, the ‘ahaaina became known instead as a lū‘au—a name taken from a popular dish of chicken or squid cooked in coconut milk and taro leaves. Imagine that: a feast to celebrate community—in which food played such an important role they named the party after a dish—that also brought about social and gender equality. Pretty sick.

Fast-forward to today, and when it comes to tourist traps, there’s nothing quite as wonderfully inauthentic as a big Hawaiian hotel luau. From faux regional cocktails to lackluster, Westernized takes on island cuisine, the luau has served for decades as a sort of stationary Disneyland ride for tourists who want to come and experience an authentic Hawaiian feast. And when it comes to the food, commercial luau cuisine is one that has never been more stagnant—embodying the stereotypical worst of Hawaii’s cuisine.

Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival [5]

For native Hawaiians, the luau has changed, too. It’s now something more of a potluck held among family and friends in someone’s backyard or a local park, celebrating high school graduations or birthdays. And yet commercial luaus have remained more or less the same over the past 30 years: peddling toned-down versions of traditional dishes, a sort of Hawaiian-Asian fusion.

Why is it so hard to find inspired authentic Hawaiian food at a luau? Chef Alan Wong, one of the chefs credited with the creation of the Hawaiian regional cuisine movement, points to tourism and hotels’ tendency to play it safe. That isn’t surprising, considering the more than 8.4 million visitors Hawaii received in 2014.

“The hotels who put on the luaus know their audience,” says Wong. “You will see dishes like salads and cold preparations and things that aren’t Hawaiian, because they think they aren’t going to like it otherwise. But I think the public and tourists really do want to go deeper; they’re more accepting now and more open. The problem is, people don’t know what Hawaiian food is. You know what cracks me up?  When you put a slice of pineapple on something, you can always call it Hawaiian. People put a slice of pineapple on a burger and they call it the Hawaiian burger. Hawaiian pizza. Cracks me up. Pineapple isn’t even originally from here.”

Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival [3]

At the end of the day, these kitschy affairs have very little to do with old Hawaiian cuisine. “Today’s luau that you might find in a hotel is definitely not a luau that you would have found 100 years ago,” Wong tells me. Those luaus have little to do with modern Hawaiian cuisine, as well.

That is, until now. With the help of some of the biggest names in the Hawaiian food scene, such as Roy Yamaguchi, Wong, and the state’s newest crop of young cooks, Hawaiian chefs are beginning to take on the culinary shortcomings of luau cuisine by creating something new and uniquely Hawaiian: the urban luau.

Photos by Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival.

“I think it’s really important to be having these type of luaus, which are modern and in an urban environment,” chef Yamaguchi tells me. He recently threw just such an event with Alan Wong and Denise Yamaguchi for Hawaii’s nonprofit Food & Wine Festival. “It’s tradition meeting the future and the modernization of Hawaii. I really want the rest of Hawaii to see what we can offer from an urban luau setting, where new ideas can come out.”

With a focus on Hawaiian produce, fish, and meat, as well as relying on local farmers, the urban luau interprets traditional flavors and ingredients while reflecting the modern cuisine of Hawaii. That may sound like a no-brainer, but considering that between 85 and 90 percent of the food in Hawaii is imported from the mainland, it’s actually revolutionary.

Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival [6]

Top Chef alum Lee Anne Wong, the mastermind behind Hale Ohuna and KoKo Head Café, refers to the urban luau as a reinvention of traditional Hawaiian dishes. “It has the ingredients and original flavor profile, just presented in a new and exciting manner,” she says. “What you see now also are these chefs working side by side with local fishermen, ranchers, farmers, and producers to showcase Hawaii’s unique products, building more sustainable businesses and practices. While this is commonplace on the mainland (the farm-to-table concept), it takes on a whole new meaning when you operate a business on a rock in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, and it is not only born out of the desire to support local economy but also out of necessity. We are returning to our roots, and combining modern techniques and technology to create a new style of aloha with our cuisine.”

Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival [2]

Sheldon Simeon, the chef at Migrant restaurant in Wailea, believes this new phase of Hawaiian cuisine is the result of the many phases Hawaiian food has gone through, in all its multicultural complexity. “What I do think has changed is the understanding of what exactly Hawaiian cuisine is—Hawaii is a crazy hodgepodge of flavors, all shaped by its history of settlers and immigrants.”

Like Simeon, chef Chris Kajioka of Hawaii’s highly anticipated CK restaurant thinks that the Hawaiian cuisine of the past has served as inspiration for the contemporary food movement. “I think the new generation of chefs is looking further back to ancient traditions and seeing what relevance they can play to now.”

Dane Nakama, Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival [7]

Because of that, the luau has finally been able to enter the modern world. Confronting the stagnant cuisine of a commercial luau—one of the last remaining relics of a time when Hawaii had little to offer in terms of a food scene—signifies the seriousness, vitality, and sheer magnitude of this latest food revolution.

And it will continue to spread—from LA’s growing poke obsession to the influx of Hawaiian restaurants in New York and San Francisco, and beyond.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

Eat These Flowers Off The Side Of The Road

Last fall, I was driving down a secluded canyon road in Malibu, California, when I spotted a vine full of lily pad-shaped leaves and the occasional orange flower crawling over a fallen tree just next to the road.

After stopping and getting out to inspect a little further, I saw this tree that was covered in what I thought was nasturtium, an edible vine of peppery leaves and bright flowers. And even better, since it was nearly winter, the vines had begun to die down for the season and only the saddest of its leaves, little shriveled flowers, and seed pods remained partially withered on the plant.

To be sure, I grabbed a leaf and a flower and put them in my mouth. When I wasn’t dead five hours later, I began counting down the days until summer.

Nasturtium is the lazy forager’s dream plant. If you’re looking for it, you can find it growing all over the West Coast: on the roadside, near river banks, and maybe even in your neighbor’s garden.

Beginning to bloom in late spring and early summer, nasturtium’s brightly colored orange, yellow, or red flowers (depending on the varietal) and circular, velvety leaves, are the marker of the start of Los Angeles’s summer and begin appearing on menus shortly thereafter. With a peppery, clean vegetal taste—something between watercress and arugula—nasturtium is a versatile plant whose leaves, flowers, and seed pods can be eaten raw, cooked, and prepared every other way in between.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

Wild Ginger Is the Designer Imposter of the Rhizome World

We’ve already tackled the delicious whorls known as fiddleheads, and the seasonal crack-like allium known as ramps (a.k.a. wild leeks). In the final installment of our spring foraging series, we’ve once again asked Steve Stacey—forager and director of the Local CFC, a community food center in Stratford, Ontario—for his thoughts on finding wild ginger, a rhizome that tastes and smells like the regular stuff but bears no relation to it.

Whether you’re searching for a local foraged version of this rhizome for your favorite ginger-based sex acts or want to up your forager ante by hunting down some of this buried treasure, here’s everything you need to know about finding, harvesting, and cooking up some wild ginger of your own.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

The Best Ramps Will Blow Your Head Off

Last week, we spoke with Steve Stacey, forager and director of the Local CFC—a community food center in Stratford, Ontario—who gave us some tips on foraging one of the finest alien tentacles known to man: the fiddlehead.

Stacey’s advice was so delicious that we checked back in with him for his thoughts on harvesting the lovely, potent, and much sought-after wild leek. Variously known as ramps, these short-lived alliums are basically the seasonal chef’s wet dream.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

José Andrés Wants the World to Cook with Sunlight and Biofuel

When planning their menus, designing their kitchens, and choosing their vendors, ethical chefs have to ask themselves: Is it OK to serve bluefin tuna? Do I want to support the local economy by only buying from small, local suppliers? What about using my restaurant concept torehabilitate juvenile delinquents?

But while most of us are familiar with people examining the ethics of controversial foods like foie gras, your stove can be just as problematic. Alternative energy sources in the kitchen are one of the latest and most exciting intersections of technology and food, helping people to combat the use of unclean cooking methods, to go green and conserve gas and electricity, and to provide a much-needed resource to communities in need.

To get a better look at these new technologies and their ability to change the way cook, we caught up with José Andrés, one of the chefs at the forefront of the alternative energy, clean-cooking source movement.

Originally appeared on MUNCHIES

I Lied My Way Into the Upper Echelons of the Restaurant Industry

Welcome back to Restaurant Confessionals, where we talk to the unheard voices of the restaurant industry from both the front-of-house (FOH) and back-of-house (BOH) about what really goes on behind the scenes at your favorite establishments. 

I was a line cook from age 15 to 22, working for free when I was still in high school. Was I a great cook? No. But could I hack it in any kitchen? Yeah, I think I could have been a line cook anywhere.

I came to New York and I had a job all lined up: I was suppose to go work for a chef who was running a four-star New York Times, three-star Michelin restaurant—Christian Delouvrier from Lespinasse at the St. Regis Hotel. He asked me to come help him open a restaurant in the Meatpacking District, right when it was really starting to pop; I was going to be his right-hand guy, and I was so excited. And then the restaurant never opened.

READ MORE: Restaurant Confessionals

I had moved to New York without any other job prospects, and I didn’t know what I was going to do. I started looking at line cook jobs, but they were only paying minimum wage, which was about $7 per hour around then. It would barely cover my rent.

So, I had to find a waitstaff job—something I’d never done before. I called everyone I knew and lied my way through interviews for different waitstaff jobs. The first job I ended up getting was at Oceana, a three-star New York Times fine-dining restaurant in Midtown: suit and tie, big wine list—you know the kind. I managed to lie my way into a job as a back waiter there—a waiter’s assistant. 

And I was just not good at it—at all. I didn’t know how to move in a dining room, didn’t know how to carry a tray, didn’t know how to put down wine glasses, didn’t know how to set a table. I didn’t know how to crumb a table, how to speak eloquently about wine—all those little things that you need to know as a fine-dining waiter. I was just absolutely terrible.

The front-of-house manager quickly came to realize that I was faking it and demoted me. I started out as a back waiter—which is basically the number two in the dining room—and then they had me do bus boy stuff.  Well, I didn’t really do that very well either, so then I got demoted to running food. And I didn’t do that very well either, so then I got demoted again to polishing glasses. From back waiter to glass polisher, all in the span of two or three weeks. Frankly, they were being very generous. They just didn’t give up on me—I don’t know why.

One night, I was bringing up this big oval tray with probably 30 or 40 glasses on it. I was behind someone, so I said, “Behind!” But I didn’t say it loud enough, so the guy popped up and I dropped all the glasses. And these were nice glasses: They probably cost $15-20 each, so you’re looking at $700-1,000 in broken glasses. The manager just went, “Yeah, this isn’t working out.” And I was like, “I understand.” So, I got let go.

After that, I was fired from a bunch of front-of-house positions. It’s like not being able to play baseball and starting in the major leagues. I got let go from my first seven jobs because I just lied my way in. Like, “Oh, you’ve worked at that restaurant?” And they’d just take it like that—I’m convincing. What did I say? Anything to get a job.

I picked things up along the way. After a while, I went from switching jobs every week to every month, and now I’m at three or four years per spot. Growing pains. I ended up as a manager for a Danny Meyer restaurant, and I learned all about hospitality and his philosophies about taking care of the employee so they can take care of the guest. I worked there for two years before I went to help open a small restaurant that ended up not being very successful. After that, I worked as a floor manager at a Mario Batali restaurant. (I always wanted to work at one of his joints because he’s got great restaurants and is a great operator.) Then a friend of mine recommended me for a Japanese joint—we doubled the revenue between years four and seven—and now I’m the general manager at a thriving LA spot.

My job is to find and fix problems all the time—and there’s always problems. They might be big or small: two guys getting in a fight at a bar; someone’s drunk and doesn’t want to pay their bill; an employee showed up drunk; something’s over- or undercooked. Everyone always thinks it’s just a business and you’ve got to make money and that’s all we’re concerned about. But my primary concern when someone comes my restaurant is that they enjoy themselves and have such a great time that they’re going to tell all their friends and they have no choice but to come back.

I’d say anything I could to get a job, so when I’m interviewing people here I know they’re thinking the same thing. And I understand it! So, I try and ask them questions about how they would handle certain situations. What’s your knowledge base? You say you have good wine knowledge? I would not describe my wine knowledge as “good,” but I bet it’s better than your “good.” You can tell kind of quickly when you’re talking to someone if they have it or not.

The best waiters never started out as waiters. I believe in promoting people from one position to another, because something as simple as carrying a tray of glasses is very valuable. How do you carry a glass? Is it clean? How many can you carry with two hands? That’s where we start—polishing glassware and silverware.

Thomas Keller talks about how his mom use to clean bathrooms. You’ll see him at the French Laundry, sweeping the floor. He owns the restaurant and is one of the most important chefs in America, but he still cleans.

Same thing here. I want our staff to have that attention to detail. A lot of people who come in here are a little bit younger, and they start at the bottom. After doing that for a while, you realize, I know how to carry a tray and I know how to polish glassware and I know what’s clean and not clean. And then you get to become a back waiter, and you have to learn to set up a table. And then you become a food runner and you learn what the food is—and then you become a waiter.

The best waiters in my restaurant all started out as back waiters—all of them. They aren’t going to disrespect their back waiters because they use to be one of them.

Originally appeared on Vice

Inside the Gut-Stuffing World of Feederism

Even as size-acceptance movements continue to grow in the Western world, people still fear fat. They worry about becoming fat themselves or criticize it in others, often under the troll-like guise of caring for a stranger’s health. But that is not the case when it comes to feederism: a multifaceted community of people with a fetish for eating and weight gain.

Barring a few eye-opening pieces from members of the feederism community themselves, the portrait most people get of feederism is one of extremes—stories of the world’s fattest men and women or think pieces that question whether the feeder-feedee relationship is abusive.

In order to get a more complete understanding of what it actually means to be part of the feederism community, I headed to Fantasy Feeder, an online hub where those who “want to be fat or to fatten” come together to chat about everything from recipes and lifestyle tips to weight gain and BDSM.

For many of those who are into feederism, an interest in weight and fatness came at a young age. “I was always attracted to fat people,” explains Patch Lumpkin, a longstanding feedee and gainer within the community. “I loved the way their body looked and I loved seeing them eat. When I was a kid, I would stuff my clothes with pillows and pretend to be super-fat. I also loved playing in the mud and being messy with food. It gave me a thrill even before I knew it was sexual.”

Mutual gainer Martin Silva reflects: “It started pretty young—I’d say, like, age 14. I liked the idea of girls getting fatter. I would think about what they would look like with 20 extra pounds, then 40, etc., and found that very erotic,” he tells me. “At the same time, I found gaining weight myself to be a turn-on—being fed by a female feeder. So I finally settled on mutual gaining, as both arouse me.”

Gaining is something that many feedees do on their own in the beginning, perhaps with some encouragement from people in the online feeder community. But more often than not, the feeder-feedee relationship isn’t there from the beginning in any direct way.

“[My gaining] is mostly personal, but I do get encouragement from feeders on Kik,” says feedee Kyle Chessner.  A direct or indirect feeder partner isn’t always necessary for feedees to enjoy the pleasure that comes from a love of fatness and feeling themselves get bigger, or the playful and sometimes not-so-playful humiliation at their gains.

For some, the act of feeding can be as simple as eating throughout the day. “I eat carbs, and a lot of them,” says Chessner. “I eat almost constantly and am rarely seen without food. I love waking up in the morning and examining my body in the mirror and trying to visually track my gain.”

For others, feeding can range from a weekly indulgence to planning something that’s more of a production: “Basically, food with foreplay,” Silva says.

“Sometimes the hottest [feeding sessions] are in public, where you have to try to not look so turned on,” says Lumpkin. “In private, you can get wild and mix sex directly with feeding. I enjoy being encouraged to eat with sexual pleasure. Like, if I’m eating, I get a reward with stimulation, or spanked/pegged if I don’t eat like a good piggy. I love being teased about how fat I am and how fat I will become—being measured, weighed, made to wear clothes that are too tight, so as I eat the buttons pop.”

While stuffing can be incredibly erotic for some feedees, huge amounts of weight gain are rarely the goal. “Only a small number ever take it to those levels of extreme obesity,” Silva notes. “I find a female going from 120 [pounds] to maybe 165 ideal.  Others might say 165 is just a starting point, and say 200, etc.”

Lumpkin agrees. “Each body is different. If you are experiencing health issues due to weight, most feedees will drop pounds until they get to a safe weight. Like BDSM—safe, sane, consensual,” he adds. “Some of us may fantasize about being immobile [due to weight] but in reality we still want active lives.”

The feeder-feedee relationship is most often one of a dominant and a submissive, sharing certain characteristics with BDSM culture. But as with any BDSM relationship, the erotic transaction must be mutual—both parties have to enjoy the weight gain. And as with BDSM, responsible feeders and feedees take their roles very seriously, and are careful to practice in safe ways that respect their partners’ boundaries.

But that isn’t always the case. On the extreme end of the feedee spectrum are people like Donna Simpson, the New Jersey woman and feedee cam-girl who once famously strove to reach 1,000 pounds with the encouragement of her then-fiancé, Philippe Gouamba. Simpson has since turned away from the life of eating in front of a webcam, moved back to Ohio, and dropped from 600 pounds to 470 in order to take better care of her two children.

“All [Philippe] could see was my belly, my figure—not that I had a brain or that I should be going to school,” Simpson tells me. “I guess you could say the same about the other side as well—when women look exactly like [they do] in Vogue magazine and men only see you for your body like that.”

While Simpson may have given up her extreme goals, she’s still not entirely turned off by the idea of a feeder-feedee relationship. “If I was with a guy who thinks it’s kind of cute to feed and likes if you gain a little bit of weight, then I wouldn’t mind that,” she says. “Like, ‘I think it’s kind of cool if you eat another slice of pizza’ or ‘I’ll bring you home a box of seven donuts.’ But the whole extreme thing is too much.”

Indeed, her relationship unraveled because the realities of such weight gain often clashed with her partner’s fantasy. “Philippe always wanted me to eat and gain and eat and gain, but then would get angry with me because I wasn’t able to vacuum the floor,” Simpson says. “You can’t want someone to be immobile but then get mad when they can’t go walk in the park with you. It becomes a form of abuse when it’s to that extreme. You have to be really selfish, to be an intensely hardcore feeder, to not want your partner to be able to walk around and enjoy life.”

As Simpson’s experience demonstrates, feeding is not inherently abusive, but it can be exploited by abusive people.

“Philippe was a bona fide sociopath. He once told me there was this woman who had no arms and no legs, and her husband carries her around like that in a box,” Simpson tells me. “And he thought that sounded like the perfect woman.”

Lumpkin concedes that while most people in feeder-feedee relationships are perfectly well adjusted, the accepting nature of the community can be enticing to those who are not. “There is an attraction to this lifestyle by the enabler and victim,” he says. “It’s a safe place to hide in an all-accepting community and family that will unconditionally love you. People like that need help and to be in their right mind before they make modification to their body with full understanding, full control.”

It’s the sensationalized cases of extreme gaining and abuse that gives feederism a bad name, keeping many (but not all) feeders and feedees from being fully open about their lifestyle. As Lumpkin puts it, “There are challenges to living this lifestyle, no doubt. We wear our fetish.”

Originally appeared on Vice

Getting Blazed with a Napa Valley Master Cooper

Aging is one of the most important of the many complicated steps in winemaking. It imparts flavor and influencing tannins to make each wine the unique glass of deliciousness that it is, and that’s classically been a function of the wooden barrels wine is aged in. Simply put, it makes that shit taste incredible.

Barrel making, or coopering, is also one of the oldest and most unchanged aspects of winemaking. While written references to coopering date back thousands of years, the hands-on nature of coopering, the traditional tools, and process of forming a barrel by hand, has changed comparatively little since then, surviving through the a master cooper who hands down the skills and knowledge to an apprentice.

In order to fully understand the ancient art, and the relatively silent heroes of the winemaking world who practice it, I caught up with Douglas Rennie, Master Cooper at Napa Valley’s Seguin Moreau cooperage, to see what he had to say about spending his days making barrels.

heating the barrels for bending- photo credit seguin moreau
A barrel at the Seguin Moreau cooperage. Photo by Seguin Moreau.

MUNCHIES: How did you first get into coopering?
Douglas Rennie: My father is a fourth-generation master cooper, so when I was 16 I went to apprentice at a school for coopers, the same place as my dad and grandfather. I learned how to work in the coopering industry, with all the traditional tools and no machinery, just like they’ve done for hundreds of years now.

What did you do after you finished your apprenticeship?
I worked at the cooperage for Black and White whiskey in Scotland. I was there for 12 years and then I left and found my way to Napa. Seguin Moreau was looking for a master cooper to set up a cooperage in Napa, so they sent me to Cognac, France for a year to work with the head master coopers there, and they showed me all the different techniques in the wine industry. It’s very different—the whiskey industry to the wine industry, the barrel types. It’s night and day difference. There’s so much more to making wine barrels than whiskey. It was a real education I got in Cognac, it was great. The people that taught me were at the top of the game, some of the best coopers in France. Then I came back to Napa to open the cooperage here and now it’s 24 years later.

Douglas Rennie hammering down a hoop onto a barrel- Photo credit Lori Paladino Photography
Douglas Rennie hammers a hoop onto a barrel. Photo by Lori Paladino Photography.

How are whiskey barrels different?
Wood selection and attention to detail. Whiskey barrels go away for four to seven years and are used essentially as a holding vessel. Wine barrels, depending on what style of wine, are away for what could be nine months to two years and are on show in tasting rooms, so they really have to be made like furniture, perfectly detailed and of highest quality. Wine makers really demand high quality, so you can’t get away with taking short cuts. Every barrel must be perfect.

Coopering Tools, Photo Credit Seguin Moreau
The cooper’s tools. Photo by Seguin Moreau.

So what is the typical process of making these barrels?
Wine barrels can’t have any knots or anything in the wood. It has to be straight-grain wood where we bend it so it doesn’t break. It has to be cut perfectly for it. Then we do something called maturation, where we season the wood, and that can take as long as two years. How you season the wood is really important—you don’t just leave it out in the yard for two years. You have to monitor the wood and the weather conditions. They add water to the wood if it needs it, or change all the wood around in winter if it’s too cold. It’s really a detailed process to get the perfect wood for working with the barrel. This is really important because seasoning the barrel leeches all of the harsh tannins out of the wood that would otherwise overpower the wine.

From then, the wood is all jointed and it’s made concave and convex. It’s rounded on the outside and shaved on the inside, which helps the wood bend. Then we assemble every individual barrel, and once they’re assembled we drive the hoops on and start the bending process. We then heat the wood over an oak fire.

toasting-the-barrel--photo-credit-seguin-moreau_SIZED
Toasting the barrel. Photo by Seguin Moreau.

Why oak?
We can only use oak because if we use gas or pine wood it will impart a different flavor on the inside of the barrel. We put a cable around the bottom of the barrel and it pulls the barrel together at the bottom, forming the shape. Next we lay the barrel on its belly and we put one hoop on the end. Then we release the cable that’s holding the barrel together and from there once it’s bent we toast it. It’s just like how you would toast bread: light, medium, or really dark toast. We use fires to toast the inside, not touching but just heating it, and the natural sugars that are left in the wood when we mature it caramelize, so that the longer the barrel is left on the fire the darker the sugars will become and darken the inside of the barrel. We have to do this slowly because we need the heat to penetrate the wood. The actual toast level should act as a barrier between the wine and raw wood.

Barrels over flame in the cooperage- credit Lori Paladino Photography
Barrels over flame in the cooperage. Photo by Lori Paladino Photography.

Is there any particular trend you are seeing right now in what wine makers are asking for in terms of their barrels?
I think American oak has become a lot more popular now than it was years ago. I think it’s because American oak has evolved so far, also the way we toast the barrels and we season the wood. But every winemaker is so different in what they want.

How much is done by hand on the typical barrel?
We are set up a bit like an assembly line, so we have one guy who will assemble, two guys that bend, and two people that toast, so every four minutes a barrel should move on to the next stage. There’s machinery that will cut the grooves and sand the barrels. With modern machinery we can keep barrels moving through faster. We can make about one barrel in four hours as opposed to the traditional entirely by hand way, where you would make about one barrel per day.

heating a barrel for bending, photo credit seguin morea
Heating a barrel for bending. Photo by Seguin Moreau.

Does that mean old-fashioned coopering is on its way out?
I’ve been hearing that it was a dying trade since I started in coopering, but it’s still here and I think the wine industry is really keeping it alive. The more people become educated about wine and the more they want to drink good wine the more there is a need for good barrels, so that does help keep an old trade like coopering alive. But for sure it’s a dying trade.

Got it. Keep the flame alive, Douglas.

Originally appeared on Vice

Vegetarian Children Are a Complicated Breed of Eaters

Modern children are an entirely different breed of human. They use iPhones better than most adults before their fifth birthday, don’t remember the archaic time when one could openly smoke in restaurants, and will listen to songs like “Wiggle” twenty years from now and become filled with nostalgia for childhood. Hipster baby names have gotten out of control, but now there’s a revolution of young children who are full-on, hardcore vegans and vegetarians. My six-year-old brother, William, is one of them.

Vegetarian since birth (due to my parent’s vegetarianism) William’s diet is something that I have silently, and sometimes not so silently, had problems with my whole life. He’s six and, even though I have spent zero time studying nutrition, I’ve always thought he couldn’t possibly be getting the nutrients he needs to grow properly—like many of us carnivores do—without meat. But William is a happy, healthy little kid who’s indecipherable from the rest his age, minus his affinity for tofu hot dogs and his ability to draw out the I’m trying not to look shocked face from waiters when we’re out for dinner and he says “I’m vegetarian” to the suggestion of pepperoni pizza.

One of the best parts about a vegetarian child is their reason for going meatless, which tends to either be adorably decided or a strange regurgitation of their parent’s rationale. “I just don’t like it, I don’t want to kill the creatures,” says William, sounding like my step-dad, “It’s weird because they kill animals just to eat the meat, not to use the bones or anything. If you’re going to hurt the animal you shouldn’t waste the bones.” Apparently “bone wasting” is a big concern for vegetarian children.

If you ask my parents why they chose to raise my brother vegetarian, their answers are a bit more in depth, “to be vegetarian is to be compassionate and have a respect for and love for all life, and then there are the obvious health benefits as well. Beans and rice provide amino acids, and dairy and plant proteins can substitute meat proteins and plant based iron coupled with citrus high in vitamin C allows for better absorption providing adequate iron levels,” says my mother. And even though those are things I’ve been hearing my whole life and rolled my eyes to often, I can’t deny that what they are saying is well informed considering my step dad’s degree in nutritional science and lifelong work in the health food industry. That coupled with my mother’s obsession with researching ways to stay healthy while being vegetarian is part of the reason why I can respect my parents’ decision to raise William to be vegetarian, even if it’s something that I wouldn’t do myself. “If he really wanted to eat meat, of course we would let him, he just doesn’t want to,” my mother insists. Sure, I think to myself, not yet, he doesn’t.

But it’s not just me. While there are an estimated 1.4 million vegetarian kids in the US and the culture of vegetarianism is more common than it was 50 years ago, the idea of a child or infant being vegetarian or vegan is still one that concerns many people when it comes to growth and health. Consider the tragic story of Sarah Anne Markam, the vegan mother who was arrested this week for not taking her infant to the hospital after being advised by a pediatrician that the infant’s vegan diet was putting the child’s like at risk.

As terribly sad as that is, what people might not realize is that for every vegan and vegetarian child who has suffered injury or death due to the diet their parents have chosen for them, there is another child who has suffered the same or equally terrible fate who wasn’t vegetarian or vegan. Children who are fed dairy and meat also die or suffer from diet induced medical disorders every year, from obesity to developing diabetes to suffering from vitamin deficiencies that effect their growth and internal organs. Some people are just fucking idiots or evil bastards that should not have children.

“A vegetarian child’s diet can be absolutely healthy, but you have to know what you’re doing,” says dietician Nina Hirvi about vegetarian children. “Of course there are risks if you are limiting certain foods, but the ones you want to watch out for are calcium, iron, and protein.” The average toddler only needs about 16 grams of protein a day—much of which can come from dairy, beans, and legumes. Many fruits and vegetables are iron-rich, and calcium can be obtained from milk. The only children that are at any real risk are picky eaters who also happen to be vegetarian.

“If you’re a picky kid who doesn’t like beans or tofu or nuts, you’re probably going to end up eating too many carbohydrates. We know that a vegetarian diet is healthier. But if you end up eating too much white refined carbohydrates and starch to substitute for lean chicken breast and beans, it’s not a healthy diet and can lead to the child becoming overweight,” explains Hirvi. If you’re going to have a vegetarian child, you may have to become more vigilant at cracking the whip, “If you’re vegan, you’re going to need to take a supplement of B12, because it is only found in animal foods and is also a good source of iron,” suggests Hirvi.

When the vast majority of problems that come about from a kid being vegetarian or vegan are results of not properly educating yourself on what exactly your vegetarian kid needs in order to survive, making them eat things they don’t want to, or not giving them a B12 vitamin, I think it’s time to stop blaming the diet itself and point the finger at inadequate parents. If you are making the decision to feed your child a vegetarian or vegan diet you damn well better at least read a book about it, or talk to a nutritionist, but get your shit together and make sure that kid is getting all of the nutrients that they need in order to be healthy.